Maria Braun

Märkische Umfahrt – the Brandenburg Loop for Kayakers and Rowers, Just Half an Hour from the Polish Border

This season, I’ve been looking for routes that aren’t too far from home — or at least not too far — and ones I haven’t rowed yet. I like exploring new waters or rediscovering familiar sailing regions, this time from a rower’s perspective.

Back in 2021, when I rowed the loop around Berlin, I met a couple from the suburbs who later became friends. They gave me several river charts and navigation guides as a gift. I love studying maps and planning routes. As I’ve written before, besides preparing for big expeditions, I like to have smaller “backup” plans — for bad weather, low water levels, or, as this year, simply not enough time off to go somewhere farther.

The Märkische Umfahrt is a 180-kilometre waterway loop through Brandenburg — a network of rivers, lakes, canals and locks, connecting the Spree, Dahme, Müggelspree and their tributaries.

A big advantage for paddlers from Poland: the starting point lies just about 30 minutes by car from the border.

If you go counter-clockwise, it’s easier — partly because you’ll be going with the river current.

It’s not a route for large boats, but perfect for portable craft, since one of the locks — Alt Schadow — has been out of operation (for the past five years!). There’s no cart or ramp there; the portage is short but unsuitable for motorboats or yachts.

I completed the full loop in just under five days, though I’d recommend allowing a bit more time to travel at an easier pace.

Day 1 — Start in Beeskow, the Closest Town to the Polish Border

The first two days I paddled with my friend Magda — known as Magda the Sailor — in her kayak. Two solo-paddling women decided to go together! We wanted to see how it feels not to travel alone for once.

We began in Beeskow Canoe Club, where you can safely leave a car for several days. The overnight stay was relatively expensive for a club of that kind – €17 per person with a tent.

We launched around ten o’clock, when the self-service lock opened. We went counter-clockwise, using the current to move faster.

Beeskow itself supposedly has a lovely medieval atmosphere and a castle, but I didn’t have time to explore.

A few hundred metres from the club we reached our first lock, Schleuse Beeskow – a self-service lock where you pull a blue handle to start the process. The commands are written in German, and the sequence goes like this: wait for the chamber to fill or drain, the gates open, you enter, pull the handle again, and the gates close. The water level drops, the second gates open, and you follow the light signals. We were tempted to exit as soon as the gates opened, but our German companions reminded us that it’s verboten, so we waited patiently for the green light. There’s also a red emergency lever if something goes wrong.

It was my first time in a self-service lock, and I was glad other kayakers were there to guide us. It turned out to be quite easy — even manageable solo.

We continued down the Spree toward the Spree–Oder Waterway (SOW), choosing the more scenic left branch through Drahendorfer Spree. After another manual lock (Schleuse Neubrück) and a portage at a weir (complete with a rail cart for boats), we carried both the kayak and my boat across in two rounds — it was hot, but we managed.

The heat was intense, so whenever we could, we jumped in the water to cool off. That evening we camped wild about 8 km before Fürstenwalde, not far from the A12 motorway — a bit noisy but manageable.

Because we were together, we ended the day chatting by a campfire — something I never do alone, but this time it felt right.

Day 2 — From SOW and Müggelspree to Erkner

We started early to cover some distance before the heat returned. In Fürstenwalde we stopped at a shop and soon joined a houseboat through the lock — a lucky break, sparing us the need to use the heavy transport carts.

About 5 km beyond Fürstenwalde we turned right at the old Große Tränke lock ruins — a remnant of a former lock wall with iron ladders and bollards still intact. From there we entered the Müggelspree, a narrow, winding section full of charm.

The river twists through quiet forests and meadows, dotted with great wild-camping spots. Finding a place to sleep is half the sport for anyone camping from a boat. Funny enough, the best sites always appear in the morning — never when you actually need them in the evening!

Closer to Erkner, suitable spots became scarce, so we decided to stay at the Wasserfreunde Erkner Rowing Club. As always in such clubs, hospitality was superb — we could pitch our tents, use showers and the kitchen, and even have a beer from an honesty-box fridge. I love that spirit.

Here our joint adventure ended — from the next morning, I continued alone.

Day 3 — From Erkner through Köpenick and the Dahme to Lake Krüpelsee

This day had an unmistakably urban feel — marinas, waterfront homes with private piers, sailing clubs, and the Berlin-Grünau regatta course. My route passed close to the city.

Just beyond Erkner begins Little Venice (Klein/Neu Venedig) — a maze of canals lined with summer cottages and year-round houses, each with its own ladder and swimming spot. It’s charming — Venice without the tourists or palaces.

Crossing Großer Müggelsee (and yes, it really is big), I wasn’t at first sure where to find the next canal. Then came Köpenick, with its beautiful waterside castle — a sight I remembered from my earlier trip. After passing the regatta course, I stopped in Zeuthen to visit friends I’d met on my first German journey. Coffee and cake aboard their motor yacht felt like a small homecoming.

After locking through Neue Mühle, I reached the Zernsdorf Rowing Club for the night. Highly recommended — the sunset view from that small peninsula is breathtaking. I was alone at first, then a caretaker arrived and let me stay overnight for €8 including kitchen and shower access.

Day 4 — From Krüpelsee to the Campsite at Neuendorf

The official biwakplatz campsites were a delightful surprise on this route — simple but thoughtfully designed. Each has a low wooden landing, benches, bins, mown grass, and usually toilets; some are free, others about €10. In the evening a warden drives by to collect the fee.

Before reaching my campsite, I had to tackle two weirs near Märkisch Buchholz, about 500 m apart — both with steep portages and heavy carts on rails. The first even had an old electric winch, long out of service. A local had warned me these weirs are nearly impossible to pass alone — and he was right. Luckily, a local man saw me struggling and offered to help. Without him, I’d still be there!

At the second weir, no one was around. I managed to get my boat onto the cart, but it wouldn’t budge. So I sat in the shade and waited — eventually a young man in an inflatable showed up and helped push it over. It took nearly three hours to cover both obstacles.

Later I reached Spreeschleuse Leibsch, a fully manual lock. You have to close the gates and operate levers from the bridges yourself. It’s simple in a group — solo, a bit tricky. I had to pull my boat into the lock on a line, then climb up, operate the lock, and re-enter the boat by ladder to exit. After two chambers, I had the system mastered.

By evening, in the scorching heat, I found a shaded biwakplatz under willow trees — perfect, peaceful, and I stayed put.

Day 5 — The Closed Alt Schadow Lock and Completing the Loop in Beeskow

The final stretch began with the challenge of the Alt Schadow lock — long closed, despite earlier signs implying a temporary closure. A local man told me it’s been shut for over five years, with no sign of the promised replacement. Together with another kayaker, I carried my boat up the steps and around.

Beyond that, the Spree wound gracefully through forests and meadows — calm, scenic, quiet. Closer to Beeskow, traffic picked up again: motorboats, paddleboards, and other crafts filled the lake.

In Beeskow I found a small slipway where I could dock, fetch my car, and with a bit of help, load the boat onto the roof rack. Everything went smoothly — and that was the end of the journey.

Practical Notes for Paddlers

Distance & Duration: 180 km — depending on pace, 5 to 8 days.Locks: Numerous, but well organized.Camping & Marinas: Frequent, often with facilities (WC, showers, electricity).Boats: Kayaks, canoes, packrafts — all suitable, though beware of wind and motorboat waves on large lakes.

If you’re looking for an adventure that combines nature, culture, and physical rhythm, the Märkische Umfahrt is a perfect choice.

Also check out my other journeys:

• The Elbe: From Dresden to Lübeck

• The Danube: From Kelheim to Budapest

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