Danube - rowing boat trip from Germany to Budapest

I invite you to read my account of my journey down the Danube, from Weltenburg in Germany to Budapest.
A 750 km journey full of adventures and experiences. After 13 days, I arrived safely in Budapest.

I travel alone in my boat. Does travelling alone mean being lonely?
In the context of travel, the word ‘alone’ makes me think of loneliness. So I try not to use it. Just because I'm sailing alone doesn't mean I'm lonely, either in life or on my journey. Travelling alone is a great opportunity to meet new people. When you travel in pairs or in a larger group, people you meet are not inclined to approach you and strike up a conversation. When you sail alone, as soon as you meet someone, you arouse interest and curiosity, which allows you to make contact with the people you meet, even if they speak German and you don't know a word of the language!

This was my next trip through German-speaking countries. In 2020, I sailed around Berlin, and in 2023, I sailed down the Elbe from Dresden to Lübeck. So you could say that I already have some practice in speaking a language I have never learned. In any case, since I am alone, I have no qualms about trying to form sentences with the few words I have already mastered.

Day 1. The Danube from Weltenburg Abbey to Regensburg
Tuesday, 30 July 2024

I chose Weltenburg Abbey as the starting point for the trip. My husband and I arrived there in the morning and planned to launch the boat. Once there, it turned out that there was some kind of event at the abbey and the access road was closed, so we had to launch in the bushes and mud. It seems to be a tradition that there are unexpected changes in the launch site at the start. It took us about an hour to pack the boat, at 10:30 we had soup for lunch, and Krzysiek started driving home, while I set off. This monastery is indeed quite an amazing place, located in the Danube Gorge. It is somewhat reminiscent of the Dunajec Gorge, with the river meandering between the rocks. The difference is that on the Dunajec you have to watch out for rocks in the current, and on the Danube for large cruise ships! On longer trips on an unfamiliar river, it usually takes a few days to get to know it and get into the rhythm of the flow. Every river is different, so every trip has a slightly different rhythm.

Beyond Kelheim, where the Danube Canal joins the Danube, the river becomes much wider and the current slows down.

Before the Bad Abbach lock, the water slows down considerably and there is no longer a rapid current to carry you along; it is like sailing on a lake. There are two locks in Bad Abbach - one for large ships, a separate one for Sportbots, and a fish ladder for kayaks and rowing boats. In boating terminology, a Sportbot is a motorboat or sailing yacht, but it is not a kayak or rowing boat. The signs clearly indicated that kayaks and rowing boats should use the slipway. I was afraid of this place because I had never overcome such a water obstacle before. A boat ramp is a concrete slide that slopes downwards, with fast-flowing water and artificial grass at the bottom to slow the boat down. The task is to guide the boat through the slide, walking alongside it on the concrete quay and holding it on a mooring line. Fortunately, when I got there, I met some German rowers who helped me overcome this water slide. It turned out that some members of this group regularly travel to Poland for rowing trips. We quickly hit it off, and it turned out that we were planning to sleep at the same rowing club, with the difference that they already had a place reserved at the club, and I, of course, did not. They let me join their team, so I had my first night's accommodation planned and comfortable - on the floor of the gym at the Regensburger Ruder Club with the German group. In the evening, I went for a walk to the centre of Regensburg. Regensburg is bustling with life. There are many cafés and restaurants here, and the weather was perfect for sitting outside.

I wrote that I obviously didn't have accommodation planned because I had learned not to book accommodation in advance. You never know where you will end up, booking places in rowing clubs takes a lot of time, and then cancelling the booking would take time again. Experience has taught me that every canoeing, rowing, camping or marina club will easily accommodate one person.

What surprised me positively today was that a lot of people bathe and swim in the Danube. I eagerly took advantage of this option myself :-)

Day 2. The Danube from Regensburg to Straubing
Wednesday, 31 July 2024

Listen, Danube! That's not what we agreed. You warned me about strong currents, I've been afraid of you for years, and now you're like a lake! No current. So much for talking to the Danube.
Today I reached Straubing. Only 56 km, and it took me the whole day. Half of the route led through a very wide river, which resembled the Włocławek Lagoon, and the other half was more like the Narew River, only without a current.
On the way, I had two boat lifts, where there was supposed to be a trolley for transporting the boat, but when I sailed up to the portage site, I decided it wasn't feasible. I was there alone, and the place was overgrown, and there was no trolley or rails in sight. So I turned back to the lock, turned on my VHF radio and spoke to the lady at the lock in German. My speech (remember, I know about 50 words in German) must have been so convincing that the lady immediately opened the lock for me.
Unfortunately, the boat lifts are also a challenge for my boat. When lowering the boat on ropes down the slipway, the cleats rubbed heavily against the quay and scraped off the carbon layer, exposing the natural wood. When I return, it will certainly be obvious that the boat has travelled a bit and has not been sitting in a hangar.
The heat was intense today. I ate a cold lunch, standing waist-deep in the Danube. I also got my clothes wet, but it helped for a short time.
I spent the night at the canoe club, which was the only place to stay. However, to get to the club, I had to climb some stone steps that are part of a gigantic embankment. Fortunately, there were a lot of kayakers nearby, and before I knew it, they had moved my boat and belongings. The mystery is how I will get back the other way tomorrow morning. But I will think about that tomorrow. That is, if I set off tomorrow at all, because storms and rain are forecast.

After the second day of my Danube trip, I realised that there must be large fluctuations in the water level here. Behind the locks, as a rule, there are no piers on the banks. There are only stone steps, which you can reach as if they were piers. In front of the locks, on the upper water side, where the level is more stable, there are piers, but they are level with the shore, they do not protrude into the water, but they also do not float. So I assume that the upper water level remains relatively stable.

Day 3. The Danube from Straubing to a wild campsite 27 km before Passau
Thursday, 1 August 2024

The forecast for today predicted rain and storms in the afternoon. Each of the water sports enthusiasts staying at the canoe club had a different idea about what to do in this weather. The kayaker decided to go ahead and sleep in Deggendorf, the Hungarian canoeists considered staying at the campsite for the whole day, and I initially agreed with the kayaker to set off. I thought I could actually cover 35 km and pitch my tent in Deggendorf. I just didn't anticipate that the town would be so uninviting. It was an industrial town, which I passed through without stopping. The water in the Danube was flowing nicely today, with a really decent current. The river sped up when the Izara flowed into it. The kilometres passed quickly. When it started to look like a storm was coming, I found a place to camp in the wild. Quite nice, and for this river, I would say downright brilliant. I managed to pitch my tent, take the boat ashore (in stages, first the bow, then the stern), bathe in the river, and then the storm began.
27 km away is the last lock in Germany and the town of Passau. The Inn and Ilz rivers flow into the Danube there, and the place itself is very charming, so I will go sightseeing in the town.
Along the Danube, work is underway to build concrete walls and raise the height of flood embankments. I guess they must have been flooded pretty badly recently...
That's all for today.

Day 4. Passau – at the confluence of three rivers – the Danube, Inn and Ilz
Friday, 2 August 2024

The fourth day was spent exploring Passau. First, I travelled 27 km to the port located 5 km from Passau. There, at the motorboat club, I left my boat, and a club member I met organised a pilot for me to the gate so that I could get back, and led me through some nooks and crannies to the bus stop. I took the bus to the centre of Passau. Let me put it this way: this city completely charmed me. It is simply beautiful. Three rivers meet here: the smaller Ilz, the Danube and the Inn. The Inn has a completely different colour, as you can see in the photos. After returning to the boat, the gentlemen from the motorboat club called the lock for me and arranged what time I could sail to avoid sitting in the boat under the lock. With large locks, this can take a really long time. The lock did not go without additional excitement. It was very windy, so I stood in the middle of the lock to row. And the lock keeper said achtung achtung through the megaphone. Fortunately, he was just talking, but the water was going down. I always say that in most locks everything is fine, but every now and then a bureaucrat shows up and shows who's boss.
It's worth visiting Passau when travelling to Austria for skiing, for example. There are signs for this town from the motorway, although I've never thought of stopping there before, and it's really worth it.
Today I am sleeping at the Campingplatz/Marina Obernzell motorboat club. The boat is moored in its designated place and has remained in the water. It is much more convenient when I don't have to take the boat out of the water for the night. I was also able to pitch my tent close to the boat, so I didn't have to carry my luggage far. It's much more convenient this way. On the Danube, for the boat to stay in the water, it has to be in an inner harbour. At night, cruise ships and barges sail, so leaving the boat in the main current is out of the question. Anyway, all marinas and harbours are built in such a way that the boats are hidden from the waves behind a breakwater.

To sum up: Passau is beautiful and definitely worth visiting, e.g. when travelling from Poland to the Alps.

Day 5. Danube - I say goodbye to Germany and enter Austria
Saturday, 3 August 2024
Everything is going according to plan. I am maintaining my average speed of 50 km per day. In 5 days, I have covered 263 km. There are about 505 km left to Budapest. My daily mileage is much lower than on previous trips, but firstly, passing through the locks is very time-consuming, secondly, about 10-15 km before the locks, the river slows down and the closer you get to the dam, the weaker the current becomes, and thirdly, and most importantly, on this trip I am also focusing on visiting the cities and towns I pass through.
Budapest is still a long way off, but I am already feeling the urge to extend the trip... What if I sailed further than Budapest?
Today, I was accompanied by beautiful views throughout the entire route. I sailed along a winding section of the Danube among the mountains. There was a current in the river, but it wasn't very strong. The heat was unbearable. I sail all the time wearing a white long-sleeved UV shirt, and I put a white terry cloth nappy on my cap, which I dip in water every now and then to cool down.
I passed the Jochanstein lock normally, i.e. through the lock, and found myself in Austria. At the Aschach lock, I had an unpleasant surprise: the lock keeper threw me out of the lock. There was no discussion. He told me to sail to the portage site. And no arguments helped, that the boat was heavy, that I was sailing alone, etc. Just get out and that's it. I had no choice and sailed to the portage site. It was really hard for me. It was hot, and the boat was so heavy that I didn't have the strength to pull it out of the water onto the trolley. I had to unpack everything, and somehow it worked. I didn't realise it, but halfway there I saw something like a lockable gazebo with trolleys of various sizes that could be used for portage. The trolleys come in several shapes and sizes and have much larger wheels than the trolley I have with me. So tomorrow I'll try one of the larger trolleys. But first, I'll try again to negotiate my way into the lock.
I would like to thank the lock keeper, because thanks to his extraordinary kindness, I had the opportunity to eat delicious blackberries on the way to the transfer point! You have to look for the positives! After all, I came here of my own free will and for pleasure!
Here is a link to a leaflet describing all the locks on the Austrian Danube. Each lock is drawn separately. Reading this file on the waves and in the wind is a bit complicated, so if you are planning a similar trip, download this file in advance :-) Download here.

Today, I am sleeping in a somewhat unusual location. It is a small harbour owned by the Landgasthof Dieplinger restaurant. I was permitted to pitch my tent and moor my boat at the pier free of charge, as their price list does not include items for tourists such as myself. Neither tents nor rowing boats are listed in their price list. I am sleeping as close to the boat as possible because today, with the next locks, I have already carried enough luggage. The banks are still inaccessible for wild camping, they are steep and rocky, so there is no way to take the boat out.

Tomorrow, after 10 km of sailing, I will again face the Aschach lock, and then, after 13 km, the Ottensheim lock, which is on the outskirts of Linz, where I plan to visit.

Today, probably because it's the weekend, motorboaters were showing off on the water, the waves were quite strong, but the boat performed bravely and didn't take in a single drop. I am delighted with its stability.

Day 6. Down the Danube through the Ottensheim regatta course to Linz and on to Au.

Sunday, 4 August 2024

I am currently in the town of Au, yes, there are no missing letters, the town of Au. I am sleeping at a campsite surrounded by cyclists. Long-distance cyclists with panniers. Everyone around me is washing and drying their clothes. No one in this part of the campsite has a car. There is absolute minimalism - small tents and a minimum amount of luggage. And from 9 p.m. onwards, it is quiet as a mouse, everyone tired from the exertions of the past few days. It's an interesting experience to find myself in such company :-)

In the middle of the day, I visited Linz. I left my boat at the canoe club by the pier. The canoeists were very hospitable, offering me something to drink and even saying I could take a shower. They also gave me tips for the next part of the route. In general, I learned that it is best to ask water sports enthusiasts about the route near where I am. There is no point in asking about what will be 100 km away, because there is very little chance that anyone will know, but asking about a few dozen kilometres is very helpful.

The walk to the city did my back, which was a little sore from paddling, a lot of good.

Linz itself did not impress me, there are some monuments, but they are mixed with new architecture. Generally, it is an industrial city, after leaving the port, there were more factories stretching for about 10 km down the river.

I also passed two locks today, both with portage. I couldn't do it on my own, but at the first dam, an elderly couple was passing by and the man asked if he could help, so I said yes, with pleasure :-), but in order to take the boat out onto the trolley, I had to unload all the heavy things from the boat. The second portage went completely smoothly, the helper was much younger than the first one and we took the boat out onto the trolley together with the luggage. After 10 minutes I was already on the other side.

There were several trolleys to choose from. They are usually at the bottom, because that's where people leave them, and here there is only one direction of movement, i.e. with the current.

The first portage, through the Ottenheim dam, was a surprise to me because it ended at a regatta course. Well... I wasn't prepared to start my boat in a regatta ;-)

Tomorrow, more locks await me. In Austria, I still have 6 to go. But now I have diagrams of all the locks and portage locations, so it should be better.

Days 7 and 8. The Danube from Au to Krems, with a visit to Melk along the way.

Monday and Tuesday, 5–6 August 2024

I didn't have time to write yesterday, so today I'll give you a quick report on the last two days. Quick because I'm sleeping at the Steiner Ruderclub rowing club tonight, my boat and tent are behind the fence at the club, but at 6 a.m. the local rowers are going to help me carry the boat to the water. They didn't give me any other alternative, so I have to get up at 5 a.m. But it's very nice that they let me stay at their club. And today I'm sleeping in Krems at 2002 km. So in 8 days I've covered 418 km.

There are 353 km left to Budapest, 71 km to Vienna and 131 km to Bratislava.

The three subsequent portages at the dams, which I wrote about earlier, gave me a lot of time to think and I came up with a new way to deal with the lock keepers. Instead of using VHF radio, I now use my phone. This way, the lock keeper can be a nice person and let me through, and not everyone listening to that channel has to know about it... This way, I passed through 3 locks in the last 2 days! The same conversation pattern was repeated at each lock. When they didn't know how to get rid of me, they asked: do you have a safety vest? And I replied: naturally!!! They had no more arguments and let me through. But for the uninitiated, I will explain that rowers - competitors claim that rowers do not wear life jackets because it is impossible. It is a matter of honour in this world, so I think the lock keepers know the easiest way to get a rower to give in - by pointing out the lack of a life jacket! Of course, I'm not discussing life jacket issues with professional sports, but my trip is not about sports, it's about tourism, and solo at that, so I have to think about safety even more, because no one will save me here.

Yesterday I slept in the wild. The spot was brilliant, hidden behind a long island that shielded me from the big waves from the ships. It was only a few days later that I found out that apparently it is not allowed to sleep in the wild in Austria.

Today I visited Melk, which is charming, and the monastery is gigantic.

From Melk to Krems there was a lot of passenger ship traffic, so there were big waves, plus a headwind, but the views were amazing. Vineyards, castles, mountains. Wonderful.

The Danube is so wavy that when I lie in my tent, it still rocks me. As if after a proper cruise, I spent almost the whole day today wearing a life jacket, in case I was thrown overboard.

Day 9. Down the Danube from Krems to the suburbs of Vienna

Wednesday, 7 August 2024

I'm sleeping just outside Vienna, again at a rowing club, hosted by the Alemannia Ruderverein club. This time I'm not in a tent, because in the middle of the night the lawn watering system starts up, so I'm staying in the club. I have a kitchen, a shower and even a gym with ergometers, as if rowing wasn't enough for me :-) I pay a whole 8 euros for accommodation. Prices for accommodation in rowing clubs range from 8 to 12 euros.

I already have 478 km on the odometer. There are 282 km left to Budapest and 761 km to Belgrade.

Tomorrow will probably be my last day sleeping in Austria, but I will be just a few kilometres from the Slovakian border. The next big city is Bratislava. I am deliberately skipping sightseeing in Vienna, as I have been here several times, and I am not allowed to enter the city centre without a motor anyway, so I will just sail along the main part of the Danube.

Today, I passed through two locks without having to carry my boat! There is only one left in Austria. I will definitely not miss the locks!

The heat was really tough today. I had to keep wetting my clothes.

Part of the route led through a heavily industrial area. I stopped for a while in Tulln, but there wasn't much to see there. However, in the very centre there was a nice city marina where you can moor for free during the day and hide in the shade.

Today I set off at 6:40 a.m. and by 8 a.m. I had counted 13 passenger ships!!! Then there was nothing, and now I can see them again from the club terrace.

I'm in a good mood, so alles gut!

Day 10. The Danube from Vienna to Bratislava
Thursday, 8 August 2024
I arrived in Bratislava. I am sleeping at a water sports club. A change of country means a change of customs! I was immediately offered vodka as a welcome drink. As always, I found accommodation on the spur of the moment. I sailed up to the pier, left my boat, went into the club, asked if I could stay the night, was asked how many of us there were, said I was alone, and, as usual, there was no problem.
The day began with a message from Andrzej, a Facebook friend who follows my route on my profile. He wrote that I was not allowed to pass through the Gabcikovo lock, located behind Bratislava, because I did not have an engine with sufficient power. Not only did I not have sufficient power, I didn't have an engine at all! It took me an hour to study maps and various scenarios. I also called Gabcikovo. They agreed that if there was a second motorboat with me, they would let me through. But where to get such a boat when there is hardly any traffic on the water, apart from ships? And how to overcome the 50 km of concrete canal leading to the dam? These types of questions tormented me all day today. I also thought that maybe there would be some canoeists or rowers in Bratislava who would transport my boat on a trailer? I was very lucky. Because as I thought, so it happened, but more on that in a moment.

I managed to cover 75 km today, thanks to the very fast current. My watch has never recorded such a speed, even on a sports boat. At times, I was travelling at 16 km/h. The pace was so fast that I concentrated solely on not hitting a buoy or other obstacle.

Today was really tough.

It started with the lock. It was the last lock in Austria. Confident after my recent lock successes, I took out my phone and called the lock. And then came the surprise: nein, verboten, you have to portage. I tried to argue on the phone, but it ended with the man wishing me a good day and hanging up. What could I do? I sailed to the portage, tied the boat to a rock, because there are no eyelets or cleats for mooring in these places, and went to look for a portage trolley. The first and only one I found along the entire route had no wheels. It was terribly hot. I returned to the boat, feeling defeated. Transporting the boat on my trolley with small wheels would be torture. I thought and thought, and decided that I had nothing to lose, so I called the lock again! I tell the man that I would be happy to move it myself, but the trolley has no wheels and I ask for the lock to be opened. He said he would call back. After a few minutes, he calls, explains that he will open the lock for me as an exception, explains the details... and... and at that moment my phone switches off completely. It was so hot that it overheated. Another problem. Oh well... I go to the boat, take out my bag with tools and spare equipment, take out my spare phone, an old one that belonged to my daughter, look for a needle to transfer the SIM card, and finally turn on the phone. I make the basic settings on the phone. Time passes, and I'm still stuck in one place. Finally, I set off, report to the lock with my new phone, and at the end, the man leans out of his tower and shouts that I'm not allowed to leave until I get the green light. Oh well... Goodbye, Austrian locks! Adieu. I won't miss you!
On the other side of the lock, however, a completely different, new world appeared before me. Along the river, I kept passing places to stop and spend the night, the current was very fast. A fairy tale!
Then a stop for a swim and to cool off. Then racing against the storm, I made it, I escaped, and finally looking for a club where I could park for the night - the boat and me. I found a very hospitable water sports club. I am sleeping in the club room, and I was also treated to food and drink. Slavic atmosphere.
And the best news is that the head of the local club himself offered to take my boat tomorrow and drop me off behind the dam on the old Danube. They are going on a trip tomorrow anyway, so they will give me a lift! So I decide not to row the 20 km through Bratislava, but instead to continue my journey.
I ended the day with a tour of Bratislava in the company of my rowing friend's sister, so I had additional company and a guided tour of the city.

Day 11. The Danube from Bratislava through the Old Danube, behind the Gabcikovo dam

Friday, 9 August 2024

There are about 150 km left to Budapest. I will get there on Sunday, probably before the end of the day. I have already booked accommodation at an amateur rowing club.

Today was a very positive day. Together with the kayakers I stayed with at the club, we packed the trailer with kayaks and my boat, and at around 10 a.m. we set off for the Čunovo dam. We unloaded everything around 11:30 a.m., but we found out that we couldn't enter the water until noon because the fishermen had let electricity into the water to catch more fish. This method is prohibited, but I didn't notice anyone caring about it. My Slovak hosts were going to sail from the same place, i.e. below the dam, but on a different route, so our paths diverged at this point. I had to overcome the second dam, with a lock closed with four drains, where I was counting on the help of anglers. But here, too, I was lucky, because while waiting for the power to be turned off in the river, two Swiss men with packrafts arrived. I asked them for help at the second dam. So I exchanged the care of the Slovak watermen for two packrafters. They paddle very slowly, but to make sure they didn't stop on the 8 km stretch to the dam, I paddled with them. This way, I efficiently got through the second dam and paddled down the Old Danube. This way, I overcame the problem of the huge lock in Gabcikovo and it no longer concerned me. The Old Danube is beautiful, with a gentle current, no buoys and no large ships. I think I only saw three fishing boats there. Apart from that, it was empty.

I covered a total of 40 km on the Old Danube, and then the waterways merged. The current in the Danube is much calmer than yesterday, but I'm still travelling at 12 km/h, so the kilometres are quickly passing.

There are now many good places to camp along the route.

Time to sleep, because tomorrow, for a change, I'll be rowing again!

Day 12. Down the Danube to Esztergom

Saturday, 10 August 2024

I decided to cover as many kilometres as possible in the morning to be well positioned for tomorrow's arrival in Budapest. I managed to cover 83 km, which means that I have 60 km left to the rowing club in Budapest. Visegrad is on the way.

Tomorrow, I have to decide whether to row along the Szentender branch of the Danube or the main channel for ships. Szentender is said to be prettier, but there is a lot of traffic there from motorboats, jet skis, etc., and since tomorrow is Sunday, there may be a lot of waves. So the ships on the main river may be less of a nuisance.

Today, after about 20 km, some people started calling out from the shore. I thought it was some children playing at waving. The river is wide enough that you can't see people clearly. They called out to me and called out, and finally shouted that they were from Bratislava! It turned out that I had met some of the team from the club where I was staying – three women who had gone on a girls' weekend on Canadian canoes. So I floated down to them for lunch. I couldn't eat anything because I've had stomach problems for a few days. I took some charcoal, and my Slovak friends gave me rice cakes and bananas. So I spent the day on dry bread and water. I bought bottled water in a shop because I suspect that the problem may be caused by the tap water I carry in a flask in the heat.

I will say what I have said before, that what fascinates me about my travels is contact with other people. The Slovakian women gave me food that they thought might help me. Your advice is invaluable! Andrzej knows the route, so he warns us about surprises such as the dam in Gabcikovo and border controls, Sławek keeps an eye on the map and, as he says, is like an air traffic control tower, Magda checks the weather and water levels. And the most interesting thing is that I met all of you through water sports forums or Facebook!

I am sleeping near the Esztergom Basilica, the one you can see in the photos. The view is beautiful, although the music coming from the town does not give you the feeling of sleeping in the wilderness.

And tomorrow it will be Budapest. On Monday, I plan to take a whole day off to sightsee and look at maps to see what awaits me next, and on Tuesday, I plan to continue towards Belgrade.

Day 13. The last kilometres to the end of the Danube trip - Budapest!

Sunday, 11 August 2024

I've reached Budapest! 754 km. I am at 1657 km of the Danube, which is how much is left to the Black Sea. I am only writing today because yesterday I collapsed from exhaustion. Today, on the 14th day, I have a day off from rowing and in a moment I am going to explore the city with my local rowing guide, Kornel.

Yesterday was a little different from the previous days. However, I decided to take the tourist branch of the Danube called Szentendre. There were a lot of motorboats with a bunch of crazy people making waves, but I didn't want to miss a part that is really worth seeing. First of all, I had the opportunity to observe the life of Hungarians. I was impressed by the number of people on the beaches. In addition, there were lots of people on Canadian canoes or very old kayaks (but in good condition). I visited the town of Szentendre, which is a kind of local folk art centre. There are a lot of tourists and pubs there.

This is apparently a must-see spot when visiting Budapest. Szentendre has a similar atmosphere to Kazimierz Dolny. I had pizza there, as I didn’t have the courage to try the local specialties due to my stomach issues.

Then, the only problem left was finding the club—that is, aiming for the right pier. There were tons of piers along the river, and the clubs are located behind the promenade, so they’re not visible from the river. But somehow, I managed in the end. I recruited two gentlemen volunteers to help carry my boat up to the club level—the whole operation went smoothly, and I found myself at the club. The Kulker Rowing Club offers guest rooms for rowers. Very modest little rooms, but they have everything you need—and most importantly, I’m close to the boat.

An interesting fact: swimming in the Danube near Budapest is prohibited, but there are designated bathing areas, just like in the old photos of the Vistula! There are changing cabins, a roped-off swimming area, rules of use, a lifeguard, and posted hours.

I also located a grocery store and had scrambled eggs for breakfast!!! Wow... What a feast.

It’s 478 km from here to Belgrade. I’m gathering strength, but most of all, I’m working on my mindset, because in ultra-endurance challenges, it’s your head that controls everything.

Thank you all for your kind words, your support, and motivation!

When I set off on this journey along the Danube, my plan was to paddle from Kelheim to Budapest and finish there. 743 km is plenty—my previous longest distance was 570 km, from Dresden to Lübeck. I completed the plan in 13 days. The 14th day was for resting and sightseeing in Budapest.

Those who follow my adventures know that, during the journey, an idea was born in my head to keep going—to Belgrade. Another 478 km.

You also know how unbearable the heat has been. It’s 39°C (102°F) in the shade. I’d rather not think about what the temperature is like in the middle of the Danube, where there’s no shade at all. On top of that, I’ve been battling a stomach upset for the past 10 days, without success.

Yesterday, I was still working on my mindset to keep going—I prepared everything as if I were setting off, did some grocery shopping, carried a pack of bottled water from the store. But when my stomach acted up again this morning, and the heat continued, I made the decision not to continue the journey. That doesn’t mean I’ll never continue—just not now! Making this decision is an act of reason, and I assure you it’s harder than paddling on.

I left the boat at the rowing club and got on a train. For the past 12 hours, I’ve been changing between one delayed train and another. The most important thing is that I’m getting closer to home. I’ll get some sleep and hopefully convince my daughters to go with me to pick up the boat from Budapest.

Once again, thank you to everyone who supported me, especially Sławek Pietrusiewicz for preparing the maps and watching over me, Andrzej Tomaszewski for the most valuable tips and warnings along the route, Magda Marynarz, who since the Berlin expedition—what, 3 or 4 years ago now?—has always been my daily support during trips, with navigation, inland German language, and river level updates. And to Wojtek, for help with telecommunications.

I consider this expedition a great success. The goal was achieved. The fatigue will pass, and the memories will stay with me forever :-)

Maria Braun

With the Danube River: rowing from Bavaria to the Heart of Hungary

Adres

Contact

Menu

Śledź nas